‘Blackpacking’, they call it – tourists heading to Norway for a nose around key places from the country’s infamous black metal scene. Thirty years since the truly shocking events of the early ’90s climaxed with the murder of Mayhem guitarist Euronymous in his flat by Burzum’s Varg Vikernes in August 1993 – the second killing to be linked to black metal, following a year of highly-publicised church arsons – it’s become just as much a reason to visit as winter sports and the stunning Scandinavian scenery. It was as one such visitor that Nikki Brumen first visited from Australia, a decade or so ago, travelling with her twin sister. In Oslo, they saw where Helvete, the record shop owned by Euronymous (now Neseblod Records) used to be. They had a drink in mu...